Manufactured: 1986 (est.) / Acquired 06-12-2011. It's always refreshing to buy a tool that has absolutely nothing wrong with it mechanically...especially when it's cheap - or even better - free. I've always thought of the scroll saw as being more in the realm of "toy" than "tool" - a saw designed for making crafts and not one particularly suited to the needs of a serious woodworker. My opinion changed the first time I used this one.
I purchased this saw at a local auction, picking it out of a "choice" lot for $16. I brought it home and immediately put it to work on a birdhouse that my eight year-old and I decided to build as our first "daddy and daughter" project. My skepticism was quickly dispelled as the saw flawlessly cut pine trim moldings, 1/8" melamine and 1" dimensional lumber with equal ease. (Ed. Note - The blade guard has been removed in the photo, but there is one.)
Although I've got a lot to learn about freehanding a workpiece, I was impressed at how quickly this saw slices through the wood and how the smooth the finished cut is. There is a fair bit of vibration that transfers from the scroll arm to the base of the saw and control can be an issue if the is tool is not mounted to a table or stand. In my case, the vibration was significantly reduced by way of an non-slip router mat placed beneath the saw. This solution is fine as a temporary fix, but once I have a dedicated space to house a workshop, this tool will likely be bolted down to a workbench with plenty of allowances for clearance all the way around the blade.
From my limited experience with this saw, two things jump out as being necessary in the "add on" category - 1) a good light source near the saw to illuminate cutting lines on the workpiece and 2) some sort of air source directly above the blade to clear away the copious amounts of sawdust that is generated by the tool. Both problems are easily solved, the first by adding a decent fluorescent light above the workstation and the second, by somehow affixing an air hose above the table that is, in turn, connected to a small aquarium pump.
I'm looking forward to putting this saw to greater use in the future and exploring its capabilities, especially in terms of decorative scroll work. Stay tuned...
I recently acquired this same scroll saw minus any blades. Are they the standard PIN End type?
ReplyDeleteThanks
Rick
Hello Rick,
ReplyDeleteYes, the blades are the standard 5" PIN type that are commonly available. Have fun with your saw...it's a good one!
- John
where can i get a table locking knob?
ReplyDeleteAccording to my owners manual, I think that you're looking for part number 66053. It is available on the Sears Parts Direct website for $2.99.
ReplyDeleteHere is the link: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/66053/0009/113&pathTaken=partSearch&blt=14&prst=0&shdPart=66053.
Are clamps available to use non-pin type blades?
ReplyDeleteI don't believe so, David. The manual for this saw states that the user should "use 5 inch long, pin end type blades only." If such a clamp exists, it is apparently not recommended.
ReplyDeleteI believe that this should work although I haven't tried it yet.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.olsonsaw.net/ac49610.html
Thanks for posting the link for the Scroll Saw Conversion Kit. This might be just the thing for those looking to use non-pin type blades.
ReplyDeleteI bought this saw at a yard sale for $5.00. I took it home, put a blade on it, and started cutting. I didn't really need it since I have a newer one that takes the clamp on blades but, I found it easier to use and easier to remove and install the blade. I will probably use this saw more than the newer one. I am impressed at the lack of plastic parts, Steel, aluminum, and cast iron!
ReplyDeleteI agree...a very well made saw! Congratulations on your find and a bargain, at that!
ReplyDeleteNeed a tension assembly. . My saw fell and broke my knob off and bend the screw inside.. sear outlet says not available now..
ReplyDeleteHello Karen,
ReplyDeleteSorry to hear about your dilemma. This one could be tricky, but your saw may be salvageable. I don't want to take the risk of tearing down my saw, so I'm not sure what would be involved in the process, but if you're willing to give it a try, here's what I would recommend:
First, remove the side covers on the saw so that you can get to the tension arm assembly. Once you have done so, take multiple photos at every step of the process and from multiple angles. This will really help you when you begin the process of reassembly. See if you can remove the tension arm assembly from the saw and straighten out the bent arm. You might also be able to find a suitable replacement knob online. I have had good luck with a company called J.W. Winco. Their website is at http://www.jwwinco.com.
Alternatively, you might be able to replace the bent arm with a similar length of threaded rod. Any good hardware store should be able to help you with this. Just make sure to check the thread count (teeth per inch) and diameter of the rod on the original arm. If you don't have one, the hardware store should have a thread gauge which will help with this.
Again, I'm not sure what's involved with this, so take my advice with a grain of salt. There is also a spring that connects the upper and lower arm, so, just to be safe, wear eye protection when you are disassembling the tension arm.
Obsolete parts are the nightmare of every owner. Good luck and please feel free to post again or contact me by email if you have any other questions.
ereplacementparts.com has many well known tool parts available, including this scroll saw.
ReplyDeleteI use ereplacementparts.com a lot and have found old tool parts that I couldn't find anywhere else. Good suggestion!
DeleteBoss, I'm leaving right now to look at this saw with a stand for $30. Hopefully I won't have to use ereplacementparts.com for this one. :)
Hope that you find a good one, Ted! This is a handy little saw.
DeleteI bought 5" blades but they don't seem to be long enuf. Do I just slip it in the bottom & top then tighten the tension knob? Its model # 113.236110.
ReplyDeleteWat size blade do I use for model #113.236110? Do they just slip.in the top & bottom after I loosen the tensioner?
ReplyDeleteHello Mike,
DeleteHere are the instructions per the owner's manual...I hope that hey help:
• Install the blade by inserting one end of the blade through the slot in the blade guard then the access hole in the table until you can hook the blade pin in the pin recess in the bottom blade holder Slide the top blade pin into the pin recess of the top blade holder. You may need to press down lightly on the arm to install the blade.
NOTE: Use 5 inch long, pin end type blades only.
• Carefully tighten the blade tension by turning the tension knob clockwise just until you feel the slack in the blade is removed. Double check to see that pins are properly located in the slots. Then turn the tension knob an additional ONE full turn clockwise. This amount of blade tension should do well for most cutting operations and blades. Before applying power, use screwdriver in slot at end of motor shaft to turn mechanism while checking that the blade is properly installed.
I Have this exact Scroll saw and need to fix my Tensioner But i cannot figure out what takes off the two Screws for the side Covers of saw. All Philips heads are out just the two that lok like small Alen head screws with the Bronze Circle shaped things around them.
ReplyDeleteHi John,
DeleteI don't have access to the saw right now, but it sounds like you might be looking at the bearings that are behind the plastic oiling caps. If you will send me your email address, I will send you a copy of the owner's manual that has a parts schematic included. It might help you to identify the part(s) in question. My email address is bossotheshop@gmail.com.