DeWalt Powershop 780 12" Radial Saw

 

Manufactured: 1980 (est.) / Acquired 01-19-2012.  I'm still "on-the-fence"about this purchase...but sometimes, you buy something for the component parts that make up the whole and not for the whole as assembled.  In its day, this was a top of the line radial arm saw sporting a full 12" (rather than the more common 10") blade.  Again, the reputation of the manufacturer (DeWalt) factored into my decision to part with $50, but it was not the deciding factor.

Among the positives were the fact that the seller (apparently unaware of what he had) threw in some "extra parts" that "came with the saw."  The extra parts included an E. Emerson Tool Co. C50 50-Inch All-In-One Contractor Straight Edge Clamping Tool Guide that normally sells for around $30 and a Rip Master Circular Saw Guide that normally sells for around $40. Additionally, the saw itself boasted a 2¼ H.P. motor with an automatic brake, a nice heavy weight stand, a newer Hitachi 10" 72-tooth fine finish blade and a set of Craftsman 4" blade stabilizers.  Both the blade and the stabilizers will likely make there way onto the Craftsman Table Saw.

On the down side, there is a fair bit of rust on the external column to deal with, the top shroud is missing from radial arm, it will need a replacement cord, and the internal height mechanism will need be reworked a bit to prevent it from turning inside the column.  Lots of woodworkers shy away from these things as they have a bad reputation as being dangerous...which leads me to my first point:

A sharpened steel blade spinning at several thousand r.p.m.
is always dangerous - period.

Now, that may not seem like such sage wisdom, but given the vehement hatred espoused by some woodworkers for these tools, it may well be.  My point is simple...any tool can hurt you, maim you, disfigure you or kill you if you're a) unlucky; b) careless; c) stupid or d) all of the above.  I get the fact that some tools are inherently more dangerous than others in terms of blade rotation, the exposure of moving parts, operator ergonomics, etc., but all tools are dangerous if used incorrectly.  More thumbs have been mashed by hammers (mine included) than have been severed by saws and arguably, a hammer is as intuitive a tool as was ever made.

Two key issues will determine the fate of this saw in the shop: 1) can the  internal height mechanism be reworked to prevent it from turning inside the column; and 2) how does the saw perform after it is properly aligned to the manufacturer's specifications?  From everything, I've read, proper alignment of a radial arm saw is critical to its safe operation - the problem is that proper alignment is both time and labor intensive and that the saw must be routinely rechecked and realigned as the amount of use dictates.  

Although sold as a "universal tool" for the workshop, radial arms are generally relegated to cross-cutting and not recommended for ripping unless you have a clear line of sight extending several hundred yards in either direction of possible kickback or material launch.  Opinions vary, and while some suggest that all problems relate to improper setup, I doubt that I'll use this one for much more than bringing dimensional lumber to proper length.  

If setup and alignment is as troublesome as it appears at first blush, I'll probably have this one on Craigslist for someone else to haul away and console myself with the 15" Hitachi Miter Saw that was the first pseudo-stationary tool in the arsenal for all of my cross-cutting needs.